Well, it's the holidays. A weird time of year in a land where a semisolid mixture of corn flour and water is the idea of a good meal. In Malawi, 'tis the season of dust and sweat.
I can't say that I had a wonderful Thanksgiving with people I love, and that we managed to cook all the traditional foods (with just a few minor substitutions like chicken for turkey). I can't say that I escaped the heat this past weekend to celebrate early in a place where the weather was just as nice as it would be at home in Fresno this time of year, in a house that could easily have belonged to my grandparents. I can't say these things because that would be against Peace Corps policy (both being away from my site and saying so on the Internet), so I won't say them.
I will say, however, that this holiday season, I am most thankful for my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers. They are my support network, my friends, my family, my confidants, my therapists. They get me. As much as I am grateful for the support I get from home, that support is a little battered and weary after traveling ten thousand miles to get to me. The support I get from my PCV friends is, therefore, all the more important. We greet each other with hugs. We make each other laugh with the build up of witty jokes that go untold for the anticipation of all humor being lost in translation. We bitch and moan about our jobs and village life (which of course we also love, but sometimes you gotta vent). We validate each others emotions, remind each other why all the hardships are worth while, and leave each other feeling ready to take on the world, to do a better job, to be a better person.
I have in mind, when I talk of these people, the volunteers that came in my training class and those that live near me, all of which are my good friends. But another great thing about PCVs is that they are all willing to be your friends once introduced--no awkwardness, lots of questions asked. I went to Lilongwe a couple weeks ago (Peace Corps approved travel) and met a handful of volunteers I hadn't known before. They talked with me in the office, walked around town with me, and went to dinner with me; I came alone and nervous about the big city, and I left with new friends.
The brotherhood created by our common experience is currently my favorite thing about Malawi. I know my favorite thing should be something Malawian, but deal with it, it's not. That said, speaking with other PCVs and comparing our experiences always makes me thankful for my situation in ways I didn't know I should be. So, in the spirit of the day, here is a list of 10 things I am thankful for this Thanksgiving:
1. My fellow PCVs!
2. My friends and family at home that make the effort to stay in touch.
3. My iPhone/the Internet that allows me to stay in touch with both of the above.
4. The Tarmac. (Their word for paved roads. British?) I live just a few hundred yards away, unlike some friends who have to walk or bike 2 hours to get out of the village. I can just walk to the road, wave my hand, get in a car or minibus, and skidaddle.
5. Ulongwe market. They sell good food. Not everyone can buy green beans and carrots within walking distance. I can also buy all kinds of supplies that most volunteers could only dream of.
6. My love/knowledge of cooking, inherited from mama mia. It can take a long time to cook when you have to always wash your only two pots and spoons, make a fire, use minimal water (since you have to carry every drop you use), and navigate in candlelight; so if you don't enjoy it, it puts a major damper on your days. Plus, you have to cook good food to eat good food.
7. Electricity! Almost forgot. Due to the provider making things annoyingly complicated to set up, I've only had electricity for a total of 1 week, even though it has been installed for two. Nevertheless, electricity makes life so much easier. An hour of cooking can now be done in just 20 minutes! It's the way of the future for sure.
8. The coming rains. They have already started cooling down the weather so I'm no longer in a constant state of dehydration and misery.
9. My dog, Travis. He's a lot of work, but he's my buddy.
10. The students who try and/or ask questions. It's a small minority for sure, but they are there and they make me happy to teach.
11. (I know, it was supposed to be a list of 10, but whatever. 11.) The teachers at my school. While I don't relate to the teachers as well as I do to other ex-pats, I do spend most of my time with them. They are very supportive of me as a new teacher and they express an interest in my culture. They joke with me and engage me in philosophical debates. And not all, but most of them care about the students. They want to embrace new teaching styles. They want to provide the kids with new opportunities. They take the kids on weekend trips. They come early to school to teach an extra period so the students can get through a ridiculously large syllabus. They show up on time and teach most of their assigned periods. They are by no means the passionate, dedicated teachers I know in America, but for the caliber of school and the norms of their country, they're pretty great.
My site mates are joining me for lunch today, so not to worry, I have company who will appreciate Thanksgiving with me. And soon soon I will be on my way to In-Service Training to spend a few weeks (and Christmas) with some of my favorite people. Time will fly and soon I will be at the six month mark!
Happy Thanksgiving everyone! And to my family, (I can picture you all huddled around a computer in my parents' house) I love and miss you all. I thank you for making me the person I am today and giving me the strength and the love for the world that see me through this adventure. Eat lots of pie for me! <3
Wednesday, November 27, 2013
Monday, November 11, 2013
Happy Veterans' Day!
It's not that I didn't appreciate veterans before, my grandpa was a veteran, and I even volunteered at the VA hospital for a while. But I always held a "well that's nice, but isn't there a better way?" pacifist mentality towards the military in general. I blame my quaker ancestors. Recently however, I was reading a book about a WWII vet (Unbroken, in case you were wondering) and I had this moment where I was like, "Holy Shit. Veterans. I need to appreciate them more. They really have sacrificed and the US and the world really has benefited." To be clear, I still don't condone war, but American veterans and their allies--them I can honor. Thanks to all the men and women out there who have served!
Friday, October 25, 2013
Musings on Moto
Saturday, October 19, 2013
Why I'm going to be a major cheap skate when I go home
In case anyone was wondering how anyone could possibly survive off of $2 a day, having heard that statistic all over the place, I thought I'd provide a list of some prices that I've found to be fairly consistent here in the village. (Based on the current exchange rate of $1=MK375.)
<$0.03 (10 kwacha)
1Mango
1Banana
1Leaf of lettuce or similar green
7Pumpkin leaves
1Juice aka freeze pop
$0.05 (20 kwacha)
1Mandazi (Fried dough)
1Bag of popcorn
1Samosa (small)
$0.10-0.15 (30-60 kwacha)
1Egg
1Cup common vegetables (onions, tomatoes, potatoes, etc)
$0.20-0.30 (100 kwacha)
1Head of cabbage (small)
~1Cup rice
~2km bike taxi ride
$0.40-0.60 (150-200 kwacha)
10oz soda
1Loaf of bread
$0.75-1.25 (300-500 kwacha)
20km of travel on a minibus
10oz beer
1kg sugar
1Item of used clothing (though there's a large price range based on perceived quality)
1Pair flip-flops
2-tiered woven basket stand
$3.00 (1000-1300 kwacha)
1Chitenje (2m of printed fabric)
1kg peanut butter
1Live chicken
A decent meal out (in a small town)
$5.00 (2000 kwacha)
500g coffee
1L gin/rum/vodka
500MB data on cellular network
1Tailor-made dress (not counting the cost of material)
Basically, I think of spending 1000 kwacha (~$2.50) the way I would think of $10 if I were living in America (which is good, since as a volunteer I make less than $200 a month).
As an aside, 4 months ago right now I was in a plane over the Atlantic. Boy how time flies. Get it?!
<$0.03 (10 kwacha)
1Mango
1Banana
1Leaf of lettuce or similar green
7Pumpkin leaves
1Juice aka freeze pop
$0.05 (20 kwacha)
1Mandazi (Fried dough)
1Bag of popcorn
1Samosa (small)
$0.10-0.15 (30-60 kwacha)
1Egg
1Cup common vegetables (onions, tomatoes, potatoes, etc)
$0.20-0.30 (100 kwacha)
1Head of cabbage (small)
~1Cup rice
~2km bike taxi ride
$0.40-0.60 (150-200 kwacha)
10oz soda
1Loaf of bread
$0.75-1.25 (300-500 kwacha)
20km of travel on a minibus
10oz beer
1kg sugar
1Item of used clothing (though there's a large price range based on perceived quality)
1Pair flip-flops
2-tiered woven basket stand
$3.00 (1000-1300 kwacha)
1Chitenje (2m of printed fabric)
1kg peanut butter
1Live chicken
A decent meal out (in a small town)
$5.00 (2000 kwacha)
500g coffee
1L gin/rum/vodka
500MB data on cellular network
1Tailor-made dress (not counting the cost of material)
Basically, I think of spending 1000 kwacha (~$2.50) the way I would think of $10 if I were living in America (which is good, since as a volunteer I make less than $200 a month).
As an aside, 4 months ago right now I was in a plane over the Atlantic. Boy how time flies. Get it?!
Wednesday, October 16, 2013
Charismatic
On my first Sunday in a Malawian village, I attended church with my abambo for the cultural experience. While there were things I found interesting (e.g. men and women sit in different sections), I spent most of the time waiting for it to be over. I felt awkward about how many times they called people up for the offering when I gave my only bill the first time, and I don't know why I did not foresee that the service would be three hours and all in Chichewa. For the next 15 weeks or so, I decided to avoid a rerun of the experience.
But last weekend, when my neighbors asked me to join them for church on Sunday, and I really had nothing better to do, I decided to go just to make the day go by. I figured it might be interesting to see how another denomination was different. And boy was it interesting.
At 9:05 the three of us walk into Charismatic Church. It is a dusty one-room building with two chairs at the end for the preacher and his wife, and tarps on the floor for the congregation. I am amused by the large sign in the back reading, "WELCOME ALL VISITORs." In typical Malawian style, they clearly did not measure out the lettering before hand. I'm glad, however, that they had the foresight to leave as many open windows on the side of this brick and tin building as possible, because its going to be a hot day. There are around ten other people present when we arrive, and I am warmly (but without too much ado) greeted by the couple in the chairs. We remove our shoes and join the women on the floor on the right side of the room. There is only one man besides the pastor and the worship leader, so he sits alone on the other side. Eventually both sides of the room fill up as amayis come and bring their little boys and girls.
The service begins with a call and response (led by a man wearing gold shoes and jeans that clearly belonged to a tall preteen girl in their previous life). "Alleluia!" "AMEN!" "Alleluia!" "AMEN!" "Up,up Jesus!" "UP, UP JESUS!" "Down, down devil!" "DOWN, DOWN DEVIL!" And so on. Then it is time for dancing. We sing (or hum in my case since I don't know the words) and move the beat of the drum. It is the restrained dancing I have come to expect in Malawi, but as far as the young church ladies are concerned, they are dancing their hearts out.
After a few songs, my friend tells me it is time for confession. This makes me a little nervous, as I have no idea what it entails. The next thing I know, everyone is speaking their prayers aloud, individually, and simultaneously. The result is a cacophony of voices, all feeling the Holy Spirit, which I personally find very unnerving. In the following three hours, this ritual will repeat itself three times, separated by the offering, more singing and dancing, some charming musical performances by a group of 5 women, and a very lively sermon (which I could only vaguely follow because my friends brought English bibles). The final prayer session directly follows the sermon, and the preacher is still walking the aisle. He yells over the drone of voices the way I imagine only a black preacher can. It's the same key phrases, alternating between English and Chichewa, "FIRE, FIRE, FIRE! FEEL THE HOLY SPIRIT! FEEL THE HOLY SPIRIT! SUBMIT TO JESUS! FIRE!" I am standing, like everyone else with my hands outstretched, trying not to call attention to myself, but he is standing facing our row and yelling so loud it physically hurts my ears. I feel sorry for the woman immediately in front of him, but figure Malawians listen to their music that loud, so hopefully she is okay with it. Then he puts his hand on her head and starts shaking it. Shouting the whole while, he makes his way around the room, shaking heads. As the women grow more intense in their murmuring, my shock gives way to a very real threat: hysterics. I think, "This is hilarious! I can't believe this is really happening. Oh my God, if he comes over here I am going to loose it. Good thing Mom and Kat aren't here; they would be crying with the power of the Holy Spirit, or something of that nature. Oh no, he's coming my way!" Fortunately, he only momentarily touches my head and does so from behind me, so no one observes my expression. After a few more minutes of chaos, everything calms down, and the drum calls the congregation back into unison with a hymn.
When we leave at noon, the service is still going, but we are hungry and tired. We head to the market so I can buy a chicken and an afternoon's entertainment of watching my friend kill, pluck, dismember, and cook said chicken. We end the day with the first shared meal I've had at home in a long time.
But last weekend, when my neighbors asked me to join them for church on Sunday, and I really had nothing better to do, I decided to go just to make the day go by. I figured it might be interesting to see how another denomination was different. And boy was it interesting.
At 9:05 the three of us walk into Charismatic Church. It is a dusty one-room building with two chairs at the end for the preacher and his wife, and tarps on the floor for the congregation. I am amused by the large sign in the back reading, "WELCOME ALL VISITORs." In typical Malawian style, they clearly did not measure out the lettering before hand. I'm glad, however, that they had the foresight to leave as many open windows on the side of this brick and tin building as possible, because its going to be a hot day. There are around ten other people present when we arrive, and I am warmly (but without too much ado) greeted by the couple in the chairs. We remove our shoes and join the women on the floor on the right side of the room. There is only one man besides the pastor and the worship leader, so he sits alone on the other side. Eventually both sides of the room fill up as amayis come and bring their little boys and girls.
The service begins with a call and response (led by a man wearing gold shoes and jeans that clearly belonged to a tall preteen girl in their previous life). "Alleluia!" "AMEN!" "Alleluia!" "AMEN!" "Up,up Jesus!" "UP, UP JESUS!" "Down, down devil!" "DOWN, DOWN DEVIL!" And so on. Then it is time for dancing. We sing (or hum in my case since I don't know the words) and move the beat of the drum. It is the restrained dancing I have come to expect in Malawi, but as far as the young church ladies are concerned, they are dancing their hearts out.
After a few songs, my friend tells me it is time for confession. This makes me a little nervous, as I have no idea what it entails. The next thing I know, everyone is speaking their prayers aloud, individually, and simultaneously. The result is a cacophony of voices, all feeling the Holy Spirit, which I personally find very unnerving. In the following three hours, this ritual will repeat itself three times, separated by the offering, more singing and dancing, some charming musical performances by a group of 5 women, and a very lively sermon (which I could only vaguely follow because my friends brought English bibles). The final prayer session directly follows the sermon, and the preacher is still walking the aisle. He yells over the drone of voices the way I imagine only a black preacher can. It's the same key phrases, alternating between English and Chichewa, "FIRE, FIRE, FIRE! FEEL THE HOLY SPIRIT! FEEL THE HOLY SPIRIT! SUBMIT TO JESUS! FIRE!" I am standing, like everyone else with my hands outstretched, trying not to call attention to myself, but he is standing facing our row and yelling so loud it physically hurts my ears. I feel sorry for the woman immediately in front of him, but figure Malawians listen to their music that loud, so hopefully she is okay with it. Then he puts his hand on her head and starts shaking it. Shouting the whole while, he makes his way around the room, shaking heads. As the women grow more intense in their murmuring, my shock gives way to a very real threat: hysterics. I think, "This is hilarious! I can't believe this is really happening. Oh my God, if he comes over here I am going to loose it. Good thing Mom and Kat aren't here; they would be crying with the power of the Holy Spirit, or something of that nature. Oh no, he's coming my way!" Fortunately, he only momentarily touches my head and does so from behind me, so no one observes my expression. After a few more minutes of chaos, everything calms down, and the drum calls the congregation back into unison with a hymn.
When we leave at noon, the service is still going, but we are hungry and tired. We head to the market so I can buy a chicken and an afternoon's entertainment of watching my friend kill, pluck, dismember, and cook said chicken. We end the day with the first shared meal I've had at home in a long time.
Tuesday, October 15, 2013
Happy Mothers' Day!
Today is Malawian Mothers' Day, so here's to you, Mom!
15 Reasons My Mom is Like Totally My BFF:
1. She gets me.
2. She makes me laugh.
3. She has supported or participated in every travel whim I have ever had.
4. Everything that I love about myself was fostered by her.
5. Any time I read a good book, she has read it and is happy to talk about it with me.
6. She knows when to leave me alone.
7. She knows when to make me talk.
8. She does not worry about me too much. She doesn't keep tabs on me, but wants to know what I'm up to because she is genuinely interested. She even let me move to Africa when I couldn't think of anything better to do with my life.
9. She makes the garden pretty.
10. She helps me find cute clothes.
11. We rarely fight, but when we do, it's nbd.
12. We have (mostly) the same values.
13. She sends me mail.
14. When I was home last year and I could've been really sad and lonely because all my friends were either busy or living across the country, she was always willing to go into town with me to see a movie or drive long distances to take a hike somewhere new.
15. She is going to let me move back home when I'm 25 and still haven't gone to grad school or started a career (oopsie)...right, Mom?
For those of you who know the great Mrs. Karen Hale, can I get an amen? (For those of you who don't, sorry if this post was lame. I just really love my mom, O.K.?!)
15 Reasons My Mom is Like Totally My BFF:
1. She gets me.
2. She makes me laugh.
3. She has supported or participated in every travel whim I have ever had.
4. Everything that I love about myself was fostered by her.
5. Any time I read a good book, she has read it and is happy to talk about it with me.
6. She knows when to leave me alone.
7. She knows when to make me talk.
8. She does not worry about me too much. She doesn't keep tabs on me, but wants to know what I'm up to because she is genuinely interested. She even let me move to Africa when I couldn't think of anything better to do with my life.
9. She makes the garden pretty.
10. She helps me find cute clothes.
11. We rarely fight, but when we do, it's nbd.
12. We have (mostly) the same values.
13. She sends me mail.
14. When I was home last year and I could've been really sad and lonely because all my friends were either busy or living across the country, she was always willing to go into town with me to see a movie or drive long distances to take a hike somewhere new.
15. She is going to let me move back home when I'm 25 and still haven't gone to grad school or started a career (oopsie)...right, Mom?
For those of you who know the great Mrs. Karen Hale, can I get an amen? (For those of you who don't, sorry if this post was lame. I just really love my mom, O.K.?!)
Monday, October 14, 2013
The president came to town today, but that's not what this post is about.
A very small child was standing alone on the porch of his house, and when I passed he said, "Amayi, azungu," (Mom, white person). The mother came out and greeted me and we both laughed. Babies are always staring at me, and it is funny and kind of cute because I may well be the only azungu they have ever laid eyes on. Who doesnt like being the subject of a baby's attention, anyways? But often, the attention I get for being white, though rarely sinister, is aggressive and not so funny.* Especially when it comes from adult males.
Because of such encounters, I sometimes get the feeling,walking through town, that I am an animal on display at the zoo. So for times when my celebrity starts to get under my skin, here are
5 Things that remind me I'm a person:
1. A conversation with a student that was something like, "when we are learning biology, we are proud," an other similar conversations.
2. My fellow teachers when they debate in English, just to include me. They want to know my input. They accept my vastly different world view, not always as correct, but at the very least, as important to consider.
3. My fellow volunteers, who assure me that their experience is just the same.
4. Reading books.
5. My neighbors, four self-boarding girls, who have embraced me as an opportunity to enhance their education, and who have become some of my favorite Malawian friends. They come to my yard to teach me Malawian games, or chat about our cultures. They ask me over for help during study sessions when they can't figure out a problem. They laugh when I am trying to be funny, and only sometimes when I'm not. They laugh at themselves too.
I ran into two of them on campus the other day, and in the open room where they were doing math problems on the chalkboard, they had found a dead bat. We examined it together. I showed them how it has four fingers and a thumb, and explained how it is blind and uses echolocation instead of sight. They played with it, examining it from every angle.
"You know, some people eat these."
"Eww, no, seriously?"
Laughter.
"It looks like a mouse and a bird."
"Feet like a chicken."
"Nose like a pig."
"Ears like a dog."
"God is wonderful."
"God is wonderful."
I don't know any American teenagers that would come to the conclusion, "God is wonderful," by examining a dead bat (or many girls that would touch a dead bat for that matter), but it was quite sweet. I did, however, tell them to wash their hands before eating.
*Note: as an American, it is hard not to see this as racism, but I want to emphasize that their remarks are not derogatory; however, it is racial discrimination, and even within Malawian culture, the educated will tell you that it's very rude.
Because of such encounters, I sometimes get the feeling,walking through town, that I am an animal on display at the zoo. So for times when my celebrity starts to get under my skin, here are
5 Things that remind me I'm a person:
1. A conversation with a student that was something like, "when we are learning biology, we are proud," an other similar conversations.
2. My fellow teachers when they debate in English, just to include me. They want to know my input. They accept my vastly different world view, not always as correct, but at the very least, as important to consider.
3. My fellow volunteers, who assure me that their experience is just the same.
4. Reading books.
5. My neighbors, four self-boarding girls, who have embraced me as an opportunity to enhance their education, and who have become some of my favorite Malawian friends. They come to my yard to teach me Malawian games, or chat about our cultures. They ask me over for help during study sessions when they can't figure out a problem. They laugh when I am trying to be funny, and only sometimes when I'm not. They laugh at themselves too.
I ran into two of them on campus the other day, and in the open room where they were doing math problems on the chalkboard, they had found a dead bat. We examined it together. I showed them how it has four fingers and a thumb, and explained how it is blind and uses echolocation instead of sight. They played with it, examining it from every angle.
"You know, some people eat these."
"Eww, no, seriously?"
Laughter.
"It looks like a mouse and a bird."
"Feet like a chicken."
"Nose like a pig."
"Ears like a dog."
"God is wonderful."
"God is wonderful."
I don't know any American teenagers that would come to the conclusion, "God is wonderful," by examining a dead bat (or many girls that would touch a dead bat for that matter), but it was quite sweet. I did, however, tell them to wash their hands before eating.
*Note: as an American, it is hard not to see this as racism, but I want to emphasize that their remarks are not derogatory; however, it is racial discrimination, and even within Malawian culture, the educated will tell you that it's very rude.
Sunday, September 1, 2013
Two weddings
In one weekend! Major integration bonus points for me--Between the two, I saw all my fellow teachers and the chief (a young guy I met a few days ago that recently took over the position when his father passed away). I didn't know either bride or groom, but that doesn't matter here. Wedding crashing is just not a thing. The whole village is welcome to attend if they want, and I'm sure in a smaller town, the whole village would.
Actually I just went to the receptions, not the ceremonies. Although, the ceremonies probably would have been more interesting, since one was Christian and the other Muslim. The receptions, however, were essentially the same: The bride in her big, white, western dress, seated next to her husband on a love-seat facing the crowd, and looking perfectly serious. The MC and DJ taking turns running the show, while members of the wedding party, and sometimes the bride and/or groom, stand on the dance floor with a tray for collecting money. The guests come up a few at a time and dance, with the dancing focused on throwing small bills into the tray. 1000 Malawian Kwacha is worth about $3, so you can throw a lot of K20 bills in the pot without going broke. I'm not sure how long this goes on, but on both days it was going on when I got there, and still going when I left a few hours later.
This long school break, being post harvest and pre-planting season, is jam packed with all sorts of celebrations. At night, I fall asleep listening to the drums and shouting and singing of initiation ceremonies. Party all the time!
Actually I just went to the receptions, not the ceremonies. Although, the ceremonies probably would have been more interesting, since one was Christian and the other Muslim. The receptions, however, were essentially the same: The bride in her big, white, western dress, seated next to her husband on a love-seat facing the crowd, and looking perfectly serious. The MC and DJ taking turns running the show, while members of the wedding party, and sometimes the bride and/or groom, stand on the dance floor with a tray for collecting money. The guests come up a few at a time and dance, with the dancing focused on throwing small bills into the tray. 1000 Malawian Kwacha is worth about $3, so you can throw a lot of K20 bills in the pot without going broke. I'm not sure how long this goes on, but on both days it was going on when I got there, and still going when I left a few hours later.
This long school break, being post harvest and pre-planting season, is jam packed with all sorts of celebrations. At night, I fall asleep listening to the drums and shouting and singing of initiation ceremonies. Party all the time!
Saturday, August 31, 2013
The other white girl
There is another white girl in my village, and she's not an azungu. She's an albino Malawian, maybe 6 years old. The first time I saw her, I was on my usual path to the market and a group of little girls ran up through a gap between two houses, pushing their albino friend out in front of them, as if presenting her to me. Their actions said, "Look! You're the same!" At the time I was a bit annoyed (although 'annoyed' isn't quite the right word; I was thrown off), so I just greeted the kids and kept walking, like I do with the other 50 kids that point out the fact that I'm white on my short walk to the market. "Yes, I get it," I thought, "I'm white, she's white, whatever."
I had completely forgotten about this girl until I passed by her house today on an experimental route home from the store. She was in a large group of people, that I greeted as a whole, and the women in the group nudged her out towards me. "Say hi," they whispered. I said 'bo' and kept going, but this time the girl's expression stayed with me. She looked nervous to be pushed out in front of me, but hopeful, like I could save her from something--isolation? It made me wonder what kind of discrimination she faces. Maybe instead of, "give me my money," the kids shout equally alienating things at her. Or maybe she is also just tired of being stared at.
I think I'll have to make a new friend.
I had completely forgotten about this girl until I passed by her house today on an experimental route home from the store. She was in a large group of people, that I greeted as a whole, and the women in the group nudged her out towards me. "Say hi," they whispered. I said 'bo' and kept going, but this time the girl's expression stayed with me. She looked nervous to be pushed out in front of me, but hopeful, like I could save her from something--isolation? It made me wonder what kind of discrimination she faces. Maybe instead of, "give me my money," the kids shout equally alienating things at her. Or maybe she is also just tired of being stared at.
I think I'll have to make a new friend.
Friday, August 30, 2013
Overdue update. Sorry.
I've been living at site for almost a week and still have a week to go before school starts. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate having ample time to get settled, and having been sick most of the week I'm very glad school did not start right away...but the idleness is letting homesickness creep in. So it's time for a blog post to let those people at home that I've been thinking about so much know what I've been up to!
After my last post, which was during site visit, I returned to home-stay for a few more weeks. I think it was a little weird for all of us to go back to being kids when we were all so ready to start the real work and live as independent adults, but aside from that, the last few weeks were great. We spent a lot of time with friends, and felt less obligated to spend time at home with our families. In my case, my family was reduced to my abambo and his brain-damaged brother-from-another-mother, seeing as how my amayi walked out on him and took her kids while I was gone. (Abambo was really not too torn up about it. I think some Malawians marry for love, but this was definitely just a marriage of convenience; something like a business agreement.) So while I love my abambo, I was not too keen on spending unnecessary time at home with two older men...I don't think the chief even knew about my situation, or I for sure would have been forced to move.
Then last week, after passing all our end-of-training assessments and bidding farewell to the families and the villages, we packed up everything we had and went to Lilongwe for swearing in and the all volunteer conference. Most swearing-in ceremonies are done in the home-stay villages, so being sworn in in the capital, with all the current volunteers watching, was really special. Plus, the global director of the Peace Corps personally swore us in. Earlier that day, at one of the conference sessions, she gave a little speech about what it means to be a volunteer, and it was really nice to hear right before taking the oath (which by the way, is the same oath the President takes). Then after the ceremony she personally stood there and handed out cake. I'm definitely a fan of hers; super nice lady.
The next day was the celebration for the 50th anniversary of Peace Corps' service in Malawi. It was held at the state house (aka Joyce Banda's palace) in a tent that could hold two circuses. Her Excellency, the President Dr. Joyce Banda was the guest of honor, while the global PC director, the US ambassador, Vanessa Kerry, and others also spoke.
That night there was a 'no-talent' show at an amphitheater by the hotel bar. It was a great way to be sent off into the world of volunteerhood. My site-mate did a fire dance without catching his dreds on fire, there were guitars and singing, some juggling--exactly the kinds of thing you would expect from Peace Corps Volunteers. Then we partied.
The next morning we were shipped off in groups of 3 to our sites all over the country. The first night, I sat alone in the dark with my headlamp eating carrots and bananas for dinner (which actually I really enjoyed since my diet was like 80% starches/carbs for the last couple months). Since then I've been practicing cooking on my baula (it's like a metal bowl with ventilation that you put charcoal in and rest your pot on top), and it's definitely easier than the three-stone fire I was using at home stay, but I'd still rather use a stove.
Hopefully I will be getting electricity soon, though! The PTA seems very proactive about getting it for the school. They say ESCOM (Malawi's PG&E) keeps giving them lame excuses, so they are going to bring it up to the president when she comes to town.
Today a couple volunteers are going to visit me on their way through town, so that should be nice. And tomorrow I have a wedding to go to! No idea whose, but that doesn't seem to matter...
So that's what's up! Peace!
After my last post, which was during site visit, I returned to home-stay for a few more weeks. I think it was a little weird for all of us to go back to being kids when we were all so ready to start the real work and live as independent adults, but aside from that, the last few weeks were great. We spent a lot of time with friends, and felt less obligated to spend time at home with our families. In my case, my family was reduced to my abambo and his brain-damaged brother-from-another-mother, seeing as how my amayi walked out on him and took her kids while I was gone. (Abambo was really not too torn up about it. I think some Malawians marry for love, but this was definitely just a marriage of convenience; something like a business agreement.) So while I love my abambo, I was not too keen on spending unnecessary time at home with two older men...I don't think the chief even knew about my situation, or I for sure would have been forced to move.
Then last week, after passing all our end-of-training assessments and bidding farewell to the families and the villages, we packed up everything we had and went to Lilongwe for swearing in and the all volunteer conference. Most swearing-in ceremonies are done in the home-stay villages, so being sworn in in the capital, with all the current volunteers watching, was really special. Plus, the global director of the Peace Corps personally swore us in. Earlier that day, at one of the conference sessions, she gave a little speech about what it means to be a volunteer, and it was really nice to hear right before taking the oath (which by the way, is the same oath the President takes). Then after the ceremony she personally stood there and handed out cake. I'm definitely a fan of hers; super nice lady.
The next day was the celebration for the 50th anniversary of Peace Corps' service in Malawi. It was held at the state house (aka Joyce Banda's palace) in a tent that could hold two circuses. Her Excellency, the President Dr. Joyce Banda was the guest of honor, while the global PC director, the US ambassador, Vanessa Kerry, and others also spoke.
That night there was a 'no-talent' show at an amphitheater by the hotel bar. It was a great way to be sent off into the world of volunteerhood. My site-mate did a fire dance without catching his dreds on fire, there were guitars and singing, some juggling--exactly the kinds of thing you would expect from Peace Corps Volunteers. Then we partied.
The next morning we were shipped off in groups of 3 to our sites all over the country. The first night, I sat alone in the dark with my headlamp eating carrots and bananas for dinner (which actually I really enjoyed since my diet was like 80% starches/carbs for the last couple months). Since then I've been practicing cooking on my baula (it's like a metal bowl with ventilation that you put charcoal in and rest your pot on top), and it's definitely easier than the three-stone fire I was using at home stay, but I'd still rather use a stove.
Hopefully I will be getting electricity soon, though! The PTA seems very proactive about getting it for the school. They say ESCOM (Malawi's PG&E) keeps giving them lame excuses, so they are going to bring it up to the president when she comes to town.
Today a couple volunteers are going to visit me on their way through town, so that should be nice. And tomorrow I have a wedding to go to! No idea whose, but that doesn't seem to matter...
So that's what's up! Peace!
Friday, August 2, 2013
A few pics
Thursday, August 1, 2013
Home Stay
For the past 5 weeks I have been living in a Malawian village called Kapaizi in Kasungu district. I stay with a man named Manfred Banda, his wife, and her children. I am studying Chichewa and go to other classes for technical training on topics ranging from TEFL to tropical diseases. At home I live as a Malawian, which involves lots of new chores, like sweeping the dirt yard and carrying water on my head, as well as other lifestyle changes, like living without electricity, running water, furniture, or utensils.
The Malawian people have definitely lived up to their reputation of being kind and welcoming. That said, there have been some interesting cultural differences to adapt to. For one, knees are scandalous, but breast feeding in church or during conversation is perfectly normal. Another is the issue of eye contact. Fortunately in the school system eye contact is encouraged, but I sometimes worry that I am going to offend older men around the village or give younger men an indecent impression of me. Probably the hardest thing to deal with for the first month was laughter. They laugh at us ALL the time; I can't do anything without being someone's joke. Like, "Oh look! The azungu just got burned by boiling nsima! That's hilarious!" (Azungu or mzungu is their word for white person, which is not really derogatory and has a connotation of power and wealth, but is still racist by American standards. Kids and merchants yell it at us all the time to get our attention.) I don't think the laughter always means that I'm doing something funny, it often is just due to their astonishment that a white person is speaking their language or participating in their way of life, but constantly being laughed will make anyone feel inept at life. Even though one is never to question the authority of their elders, I have taken to telling people that try to tell me how to do things that I have my own methods that are perfectly effective and there's more than one way to do something.
A couple weeks ago was model school, where the trainees all taught for 7 days in an actual Malawian school. I think this was a turning point in training for me, because I was reminded that I am capable and I'm here to do a job that few Malawians are qualified to do. It is certainly a challenge to teach science to kids who barely understand English, but in a way, it is an opportunity for me, as a native speaker, to be an even better resource for the students.
I am currently visiting my site, which is in a town called Ulongwe in Balaka district. I am very happy with my placement! Both my headmaster and department head are women, which is rare, and means I won't have to face as many issues with sexism as some of the other volunteers. (Not that Malawians are particularly sexist, but they have much more traditional gender roles, not unlike the US in the 50's except that the women are super buff, because tending to the home includes things like carrying water and splitting wood.) The area is also prettier than Kasungu district and culturally has a strong Islamic influence, which makes it less homogeneous and more interesting. Everyone is really welcoming and so happy to have another teacher!
I will try to post again soon, so ask me questions! Anything you want to know! Also, sorry if there are any weird typos; I always have issues typing on my phone, and being here definitely hasn't made my grammar better...
Anyways, the take away from this blog post is that I am challenged and happy. Much love!
Laura
The Malawian people have definitely lived up to their reputation of being kind and welcoming. That said, there have been some interesting cultural differences to adapt to. For one, knees are scandalous, but breast feeding in church or during conversation is perfectly normal. Another is the issue of eye contact. Fortunately in the school system eye contact is encouraged, but I sometimes worry that I am going to offend older men around the village or give younger men an indecent impression of me. Probably the hardest thing to deal with for the first month was laughter. They laugh at us ALL the time; I can't do anything without being someone's joke. Like, "Oh look! The azungu just got burned by boiling nsima! That's hilarious!" (Azungu or mzungu is their word for white person, which is not really derogatory and has a connotation of power and wealth, but is still racist by American standards. Kids and merchants yell it at us all the time to get our attention.) I don't think the laughter always means that I'm doing something funny, it often is just due to their astonishment that a white person is speaking their language or participating in their way of life, but constantly being laughed will make anyone feel inept at life. Even though one is never to question the authority of their elders, I have taken to telling people that try to tell me how to do things that I have my own methods that are perfectly effective and there's more than one way to do something.
A couple weeks ago was model school, where the trainees all taught for 7 days in an actual Malawian school. I think this was a turning point in training for me, because I was reminded that I am capable and I'm here to do a job that few Malawians are qualified to do. It is certainly a challenge to teach science to kids who barely understand English, but in a way, it is an opportunity for me, as a native speaker, to be an even better resource for the students.
I am currently visiting my site, which is in a town called Ulongwe in Balaka district. I am very happy with my placement! Both my headmaster and department head are women, which is rare, and means I won't have to face as many issues with sexism as some of the other volunteers. (Not that Malawians are particularly sexist, but they have much more traditional gender roles, not unlike the US in the 50's except that the women are super buff, because tending to the home includes things like carrying water and splitting wood.) The area is also prettier than Kasungu district and culturally has a strong Islamic influence, which makes it less homogeneous and more interesting. Everyone is really welcoming and so happy to have another teacher!
I will try to post again soon, so ask me questions! Anything you want to know! Also, sorry if there are any weird typos; I always have issues typing on my phone, and being here definitely hasn't made my grammar better...
Anyways, the take away from this blog post is that I am challenged and happy. Much love!
Laura
Thursday, June 20, 2013
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
Staging Day!
Today was staging in Philadelphia. The orientation was a little hokey (and redundant to everyone who did the assigned reading), but it was nice to finally be around people who are in the same boat. We talked about our anxieties and ambitions and no one questioned our motives. I was a nervous wreck last night and this morning, but I feel much calmer now, knowing that whatever challenges I face in the coming years, I'll have a network of pretty awesome people in Malawi that will have my back.
Tonight our group of 21 education volunteers will leave the hotel at 3am on a bus to JFK where we'll catch our 15 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. From there, we fly to Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, where we'll stay in a hotel for the first few days before moving to our training village near Kasungu. Despite the immediate and daunting task of getting to Malawi, right now I am just super excited to see a different part of the world, learn a new language, experience a new culture, and hopefully change lives for the better!
To close, here are a couple quotes that really resonated with me today:
"Peace requires the simple but powerful recognition that what we have in common as human beings is more important and crucial than what divides us." -Sargent Shriver (first Peace Corps Director)
"Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference." -The Serenity Prayer, Reinhold Niebuhr
Adios amigos!
Tonight our group of 21 education volunteers will leave the hotel at 3am on a bus to JFK where we'll catch our 15 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. From there, we fly to Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, where we'll stay in a hotel for the first few days before moving to our training village near Kasungu. Despite the immediate and daunting task of getting to Malawi, right now I am just super excited to see a different part of the world, learn a new language, experience a new culture, and hopefully change lives for the better!
To close, here are a couple quotes that really resonated with me today:
"Peace requires the simple but powerful recognition that what we have in common as human beings is more important and crucial than what divides us." -Sargent Shriver (first Peace Corps Director)
"Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference." -The Serenity Prayer, Reinhold Niebuhr
Adios amigos!
Monday, June 17, 2013
Goodbye!
Goodbye to all my wonderful friends and family. I'll miss you! You have been a great support system and it is because of all of you that I am strong and open minded enough to take this journey. Love you all! Xoxo
Friday, June 14, 2013
FAQs
It's my last few days at home. After a year of anticipation, the reality of my big adventure still hasn't sunk in. I'm guessing I'll run into it at the Fresno Yosemite International Airport at around 6am Monday morning.
Creating a blog was one of the few things left on my to-do list, and just look how productive I'm being! I won't have Internet access for my first couple months in Malawi, so I figured I ought to get a post or two in before I leave. Here are my answers to some frequently asked questions to get us started:
Q: Now where are you going?
A: Malawi. It's in southeastern Africa between Mozambique, Tanzania, and Zambia. The official languages are English and Chichewa and there are a few other tribal languages (no, I don't think there's any clicking). There's a big lake and a big mountain and it's climate is relatively warm and tropical.
Q: What is your village like?
A: Don't know yet. They wait to match volunteers to villages until they know a little more about their individual strengths and weaknesses...at least some people still recognize that people are more than their resumes.
Q: How long is the commitment?
A: 27 months
Q: 27 months?! Do you get to come home?
A: I am allowed to use my own money and vacation time to do so, but I'm not planning on it. I'd rather use that time to see more of Africa.
Q: What will you be doing?
A: Teaching high school. I'm pretty sure I was hired to be a biology teacher, but I may also teach physical science, English, or their version of sex ed, which is mainly focused on AIDS awareness/prevention.
Q: Do they give you any sort of training?
A: Yes. The first 8 weeks will be spent with other education volunteers in language, culture, and technical training. I will attend lessons and live in a home-stay (to help with language and cultural immersion).
Q: What is the food like?
A: Homogeneous; mostly corn-based.
Q: Running water and electricity?
A: Probably not...at least not at my house.
Q: Are you nervous or excited?
A: Both. It oscillates. I feel basically the way I did before I moved to Bucknell: I'm confident in my decision and I know it'll be a great experience, but it's not going to be a cake walk. In fact I'll probably really miss cake. And my family. And flushing toilets.
Q: Why did you decide to join the Peace Corps?
A: I've always wanted to; it has something to do with my sense of adventure, my desire to do good in the world, and my life goal to be an interesting person. Mostly I just decided to go for it, because I didn't want to regret not going in my old age.
Q: Are you worried about your safety?
A: Yeah...The same way I worry about my safety wherever I go. But I'm pretty good at being aware and alert and making good decisions; I know all the tips and tricks for avoiding crime as a tourist; I think I'll be okay.
Q: What do your parents think?
A: Please. My parents are the bomb.com. My dad was hanging off the side of a mountain when he was my age, and my mom traveled extensively with my sister and I way before I can even remember. Her reaction to my assignment was, "Yay! We're going to Africa!" They're so excited for me. <3
So that's it for now. If you have any other questions for me, let me know in the comments or on Facebook. I'm not sure how often I'll be able to update this blog after the first 9 weeks, it could be once a week or just once every few months depending on my placement, but I promise I'll make an effort! So excited!
Creating a blog was one of the few things left on my to-do list, and just look how productive I'm being! I won't have Internet access for my first couple months in Malawi, so I figured I ought to get a post or two in before I leave. Here are my answers to some frequently asked questions to get us started:
Q: Now where are you going?
A: Malawi. It's in southeastern Africa between Mozambique, Tanzania, and Zambia. The official languages are English and Chichewa and there are a few other tribal languages (no, I don't think there's any clicking). There's a big lake and a big mountain and it's climate is relatively warm and tropical.
Q: What is your village like?
A: Don't know yet. They wait to match volunteers to villages until they know a little more about their individual strengths and weaknesses...at least some people still recognize that people are more than their resumes.
Q: How long is the commitment?
A: 27 months
Q: 27 months?! Do you get to come home?
A: I am allowed to use my own money and vacation time to do so, but I'm not planning on it. I'd rather use that time to see more of Africa.
Q: What will you be doing?
A: Teaching high school. I'm pretty sure I was hired to be a biology teacher, but I may also teach physical science, English, or their version of sex ed, which is mainly focused on AIDS awareness/prevention.
Q: Do they give you any sort of training?
A: Yes. The first 8 weeks will be spent with other education volunteers in language, culture, and technical training. I will attend lessons and live in a home-stay (to help with language and cultural immersion).
Q: What is the food like?
A: Homogeneous; mostly corn-based.
Q: Running water and electricity?
A: Probably not...at least not at my house.
Q: Are you nervous or excited?
A: Both. It oscillates. I feel basically the way I did before I moved to Bucknell: I'm confident in my decision and I know it'll be a great experience, but it's not going to be a cake walk. In fact I'll probably really miss cake. And my family. And flushing toilets.
Q: Why did you decide to join the Peace Corps?
A: I've always wanted to; it has something to do with my sense of adventure, my desire to do good in the world, and my life goal to be an interesting person. Mostly I just decided to go for it, because I didn't want to regret not going in my old age.
Q: Are you worried about your safety?
A: Yeah...The same way I worry about my safety wherever I go. But I'm pretty good at being aware and alert and making good decisions; I know all the tips and tricks for avoiding crime as a tourist; I think I'll be okay.
Q: What do your parents think?
A: Please. My parents are the bomb.com. My dad was hanging off the side of a mountain when he was my age, and my mom traveled extensively with my sister and I way before I can even remember. Her reaction to my assignment was, "Yay! We're going to Africa!" They're so excited for me. <3
So that's it for now. If you have any other questions for me, let me know in the comments or on Facebook. I'm not sure how often I'll be able to update this blog after the first 9 weeks, it could be once a week or just once every few months depending on my placement, but I promise I'll make an effort! So excited!
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